Mac's Picks - 20 April 2024
Mac's Picks - 20 April 2024
23/04/2024
Welcome to this week’s column – a down to earth look at some interesting local and international releases that I have come across over the last few weeks.
JK.14 Ombra Prosecco DOC Brut NV - Italy
Available from $23.99
The JK.14 brand is a fast-growing side hustle for Sir John Kirwan and his family. Kirwan’s association with Italy and his love of Italian food and wine is well documented, so a foray into wine importation was always on the cards. The business model is to rebrand or co-brand with wines that have caught his eye, and the standard of wines I have tasted from his portfolio has been consistently high. This DOC Prosecco is a lovely wine. Vinted from Treviso fruit, it’s an engaging, dry expression with creamy mouthfeel and flavours in the ripe citrus spectrum, with some underlying hazelnut complexity. Soft acidity closes the show and the lasting impression here is fresh and uncomplicated – but ultimately very pleasing. It’s a perfect wine to kick off a late afternoon drinks party – and of course the Kirwan family links provide an easy conversation starter.
Odyssey Chardonnay 2022 - Gisborne
Available from $21.99
Vigneron Rebecca Salmond has built up an enviable following for her brand after launching the Odyssey label in 1994. Chardonnay has consistently been her trump card over those 30 years. The Odyssey style is ripe and complex, but with more finesse and vibrancy than you would normally associate with Gisborne Chardonnay – and this 2022 estate chardonnay certainly sings from that well-practiced song sheet. Barrel and partial malolactic fermentation have done their job and delivered a wine with good texture and presence. The classic regional peach and stone fruit flavours of Gisborne Chardonnay are always front and centre and supported on the palate with a lightly creamy texture and hints of oak spice. This is a smart wine that is showing very well in its youth – especially given the lesser growing season. Throw a lemon spiked roast chicken in the oven as soon as possible.
Awakohu Rosé 2023 - Hawke's Bay
Available from $12.99
Here’s an absolute bargain. Produced from Hawke’s Bay Merlot, with a splash of pinot noir adding extra freshness and flow, this new release from Awakohu is looking very sharp indeed. Attractive in the glass with glowing, light-salmon hues, this 2023 rosé has a bouquet that brims with strawberry, watermelon, and cranberry notes – while a kiss of confectionary adds a subtle touch of decadence. Those characters carry on to an essentially dry palate that’s laden with those crunchy red summer fruits. A juicy and more generous texture on the mid-palate adds a luxe element while the finish is crisp and long with soft, rounded acidity. This is good, obviously well-made wine – especially given the price it sells at. Great value.
Linden Estate Pinotage 2020 - Hawke's Bay
Available from $17.99
With its spiritual home in South Africa, pinotage was created 100 years ago by crossing pinot noir with cinsault. Though still wildly popular there, it’s a relatively rare varietal in New Zealand, and our pinotage is middleweight by South African standards (where it typically has Australian Shiraz-like proportions). 2020 was an excellent vintage in Hawke’s Bay and this interesting wine is looking bolder and more robust than previous vintages I have tried. On the nose it’s gamey and dark fruited, with some obvious spice and herbal elements. On the palate those fruits are expressed in a savoury fashion with plenty of grippy, tannic structure. The finish shows good length and plenty of acid – but this is definitely a food wine, that needs some hearty cooking to counter those robust layers of tannin and acidity. It would be a wonderful match with slow roasted venison or duck – especially if they were prepared with lots of sage and rosemary.
Deen de Bortoli Vat 8 Shiraz - Australia
Available from $16.99
Here’s an outright winner that you need to put in your shopping list. This unassuming little red fell into the limelight last year when Cuisine Magazine gave it their #1 ranking in their annual Australian Shiraz tasting. Results like that can do wonders for an entry level brand like de Bortoli’s ‘Deen’ label, and consequently, a large part of de Bortoli’s stock of this wine ended up being sold in New Zealand. Now, 6 years on from harvest, it’s certainly a very satisfying wine. Notes of blue and black berry fruits show on the nose with some mocha and spicy barrel complexity. The palate is warm and surprisingly full-bodied with masses of ripe fruits and sweet oak. Bottle aging has done its work, and some nice secondary characters are starting to show. The finish is long and harmonious, with fruit weight, tannin and acidity all nicely aligned. It’s the ultimate bargain. If you see this wine, buy it. End of story.
Boccantino Nero d’Avola Nerello Mascalese 2019 – Italy
Available from $21.99
Let’s finish this column with a bang. This excellent 2019 Boccantino release is a blend of two Sicilian varietals - nero d’avola and nerello mascalese. Nero d’avola – the most important Sicilian variety - provides weighty, dark, rounded flavours of black fruits, and brings the power and glossy palate-flow to the party. Nerello mascalese offers brightness and freshness to the blend, with a pinot-noir-like savoury cherry character. It also brings the acidity that makes this impressive wine such a winner with food. Now entering its ideal dinking window, this wine will continue to age gracefully over the coming 8-10 years. Match it with a strong cheese course after a hearty dinner for a memorable conclusion to a good night with friends.