Welcome to this week’s column – a down to earth look at some interesting local and international releases that I have come across over the last few weeks.

Black Cottage Pinot Gris 2023 - Marlborough

Available from $17.99

This is fresh and vibrant Marlborough Pinot Gris from Black Cottage winemaker Sanna Stander. Vinted in a dry style, it’s a bright, clean expression with tropical fruit notes dancing over the main flavours of semi-ripe pear and quince.  In typical Black Cottage fashion, this is an elegantly styled wine considering the humble price band that it operates in. The crisp palate makes it appealing both as a cleansing aperitif or to serve alongside lighter foods and salads. There can be no denying that this wine offers very good value now and I will enjoy revisiting this 2023 release in a year or so when those subtle fruits have fully integrated and broadened the palate a touch.

Ant Moore A+ Sauvignon Blanc 2023 - Marlborough

Available from $19.99

After predominantly focusing their sales efforts on offshore markets, well-known Marlborough producer Ant Moore have returned to their roots with renewed interest in local distribution. Their small batch A+ range remains the driving force for New Zealand retailers, with the 2023 sauvignon blanc a good expression of Marlborough’s signature varietal. On the nose this is a typically punchy release, with the tropical fruits and citrus notes that sauvignon fans adore. Those exuberant characters flow easily through to a very fresh and crunchy palate that brings some mineral elements into play, while the finish is salivating with plenty of citrus acidity. A subtle saline touch adds another layer of interest, and the lasting impression is balanced and vibrant.

Matawhero Irwin Chardonnay 2021 - Gisborne

Available from $52.99

Named as a tribute to the Irwin family who founded Matawhero, this is flagship Gisborne Chardonnay from a winery who are constantly stepping up their game. 100% barrel-fermented in a combination of French and American oak, this is a typically powerful Irwin from Matawhero. This is clearly a chardonnay that has been built for the long haul, and while it is already a wonderful glass of wine, there is a majestic outcome for those who choose to cellar this important Gisborne release over the coming 5-6 years. Those heady peach and baked fig flavours will amplify. The fresh acidity that is now apparent will fully meld into those punchy Gisborne fruits and the spicy oak and brioche notes on the palate will further integrate. If you’re a fan of premium New Zealand barrel-fermented Chardonnay, and Irwin isn’t on your ‘must try’ list, it’s time to refocus.

Beach House Syrah 2020 - Hawke's Bay

Available from $31.99

Beach House have developed quite the reputation for their stable of Gimblett Gravels reds and this quality syrah will do nothing but enhance that view. Produced from the excellent 2020 vintage, it’s a highly aromatic release with layers of spicy red and black fruits sitting over a central core of blueberry notes. Those classic syrah characters flow though to a boldly weighted, powerful palate that shows plenty of charm. To my mind, the palate weight here is near perfectly pitched. There is generosity and rounded mouthfeel, but the acid / tannin components keep proceedings in check and never let the wine look too confident or brash. If you can imagine ‘controlled swagger’ in a glass of syrah, this is what’s been captured here.  Lovely wine.

Bodegas Aragonesas Castillo De Fuendejalon Crianza 2018 - Spain

Available from $18.99

Here’s a wine where slick packaging is an obvious drawcard -  but while the glossy, paper wrapped bottles make such a bold statement, the contents within stand up to the hype. Produced from grenache and tempranillo from Campo de Borja fruit, this is very attractive middleweight wine showcasing Spain’s two most important red varietals. Grenache brings those famous glossy dark fruits to the party, while the red fruits of the tempranillo component contribute vibrancy, freshness and some extra zing. Spain does easy drinking red wine better than almost anyone, and this is a perfect ‘one size fits all’ option when you need something cool and different on your table, but you want it to be truly user-friendly at the same time.  Great value.

Helio Pinot Noir 2021 - Martinborough

Available from $39.99

This is a lovely expression of thoughtful pinot noir from the Helio 'passion project' conceived by Clearview winemaker Matt Kirby, his wife Sarah Little (ex Felton Road) and filmmaker / wine empresario, Dave Nash. When the stylistic direction of Helio Pinot Noir was being conceived, Martinborough was always top of the list of possible regional sites. The team wanted to capture those savoury notes that are a calling card of good Martinborough Pinot, and this 2021 release has gathered those classic, earthy tones in spades. Aromatically it’s very inviting with dark berry fruits, plum, baking spices and hard green herbs all making themselves known. The palate is bright and vibrant with those dark savoury fruits in full effect, and ably supported by fine tannins and a lovely line of integrated acidity.  Quality all the way here– and very well-priced by premium New Zealand Pinot Noir prices.

Welcome to this week’s column – a down to earth look at some interesting local and international releases that I have come across over the last few weeks.

Starborough Sons of the Soil Pinot Gris 2023 - Marlborough

Available from $19.99

I have long been singing the praises of the Starborough aromatics, with the Sons of the Soil Pinot Gris a particular favourite. Plush and quite full in the mouth, it opens with aromas in the spiced nashi pear and honeysuckle spectrum. Those clean pear flavours flow seamlessly through to a fleshy, just off-dry palate where they are joined with layers of ripe citrus. Some subtle seasoned oak treatment brings another textural element, without adding noticeable wood spice into the mix. If you’re a pinot gris fan who is looking for a rock-solid recommendation in the sub twenty-dollar bracket, you’ll go a long way to find better value than this.

Sherwood Estate Stratum Riesling 2022 - Waipara

Available from $14.99

Stratum Riesling has always been one of the great aromatic buys in our local market and the 2022 release from Sherwood Estate is another great value proposition from this excellent producer. Waipara is a brilliant region for riesling production. It typically produces examples that are fuller and plusher than anywhere else in the country, with a ‘juicy-fruit’ chewing gum note as a hallmark flavour. As you would expect, Stratum is all about showcasing those plush juicy fruits and the 2022 shows a floral nose with honeysuckle / citrus notes and a medium-dry palate which is laden with lemon / lime characters and plenty of soft acidity. This friendly, appealing wine is a well-priced option for anyone looking to reacquaint themselves with the joy that a good glass of riesling can provide. Enjoy as an aperitif or match with spicy Asian dishes.

Squawking Magpie Counting Crows Chardonnay 2020 - Hawke's Bay

Available from $29.99

Gavin Yortt was a pioneer of the famed Gimblett Gravels.  He has been growing grapes there since 1981 and Squawking Magpie has evolved into a highly respected stable of wines that are currently made under the watchful eye of celebrated winemaker, Jenny Dobson. This single vineyard release comes from a very good vintage and carries the label’s chardonnay signature of understated power. 100% barrel fermented in a mix of new and old oak, it’s all classic Hawkes Bay peach, citrus, brioche and oak spice on the nose. Those characters flow through to a sophisticated palate that builds generosity in the mouth. It’s vibrant, ‘alive’ wine and those bursts of citrus energy are nicely balanced with a softer, creamier element, before fresh acidity and lingering notes of spicy lemon zest close the show. You must never forget that Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay of this calibre is an absolute bargain by global standards. Match with a classic roast chook and wait for the angels to sing.

Mount Edward Ted Pinot Noir 2022 - Central Otago

Available from $29.99

Under the steady hands of Duncan Forsyth – one of the great characters of the New Zealand winemaking fraternity - Mount Edward has become one of the darlings of the Central Otago trade, with Ted acting as a drink young counterpoint to the more structured and serious Mount Edward range. The 2022 Ted Pinot Noir certainly delivers the goods. Vinted from estate grown fruit, this organic offering brings soft and juicy dark fruits to the party in an approachable package that is detailed with herbal notes, spicy oak and a subtle lick of anise. It’s a fresh, appealing offering that’s been made to enjoy whenever the mood strikes, but your first glass will reveal an underlying savoury character that remains the calling card for any Mount Edward Pinot release.

Quarisa Carpone Durif 2020 - South Australia

Available from $18.99

Here’s something quirky that Aussie red fans simply must try. For over 30 years, Johnny Quarisa has made a name for himself as the creator of some of Australia’s best value red wines. In fact, if I was asked to name my favourite Aussie red producer in the key under $20 bracket, I think I’d say ‘Johnny Q’. All his reds share a common thread of generosity, silky palate flow, and good old-fashioned drinkability. Durif is a spicy red that is mainly grown in Australia and the USA (where it is also known as Petit Sirah). Quarisa has carved out a big reputation as a durif producer across the Tasman and Carpone 2020 is a typically fulsome release that is packed with rich characters of plum, cassis, chocolate, coffee and liquorice, with a lovely vanillin finish - thanks to partial aging in American oak. It's bold, glossy and loaded with spice – and those plush chocolate / mocha flavours bring a luxe character to the palate. It’s one of those perfect anytime reds if you’re looking for something big and rewarding but don’t want to go down the traditional cabernet or shiraz path. It comes very highly recommended.

Gnarly Head Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 - USA

Available from $21.99

The Gnarly Head range is all about Californian affordability. Like the Quarisa label discussed above, they come with a reputation for being well made, full-bodied, and varietally correct. Certainly this 2021 release gives you everything you can ask for from Californian Cabernet in this price band. It brims with dark fruits, leather and tobacco / anise on the nose and those classic cabernet characters push on to a boldly weighted palate that shows good flow and mouthfeel. It’s softly structured and supple by cabernet standards and has clearly been vinted to be enjoyed in its youth. The tannin structure is dialed down and the acid component that rounds out the finish is soft and creamy. Match with a hearty casserole on a cold, mid-week winter’s night. It’s great value.

Welcome to this week’s column – a down to earth look at some interesting local and international releases that I have come across over the last few weeks.

Nautilus Albarino 2023 - Marlborough

Available from $26.99

Albeit coming off a very small base, we are seeing a surge in albarino labels in our local market, with a few enthusiastic wineries keen to pronounce this lesser-known varietal as ‘the next big thing’ in New Zealand white wine production. Albarino’s spiritual home is in Galicia in Northwestern Spain. There it is typically a bone-dry style that shines with tension and racy acidity. It’s a food wine that is known as a great match with seafood – especially shellfish – and the same can be said for the Kiwi versions I have tasted to date. Nautilus 2023 is a very good example of what I now see as the New Zealand Albarino model. It’s a bit softer and more fruit driven than its Spanish counterparts, with a noticeable floral aspect to the nose and a rounder expression of citrus and green melon on the palate. Plenty of fresh acidity cleans up the finish while a touch of mineral salinity balances out some of those fleshy melon characters. Open a bottle with some fresh oysters for a special treat or match with a simple fish crudo for an elegant entrée.

Rockford White Frontignac 2023 - Australia

Available from $38.99

The Barossa isn’t the first place the springs to mind when you’re thinking of delicate white wines, but Rockford – a much-storied Australian winery – have carved out quite the reputation for their White Frontignac, and this writer has been a fan of this quirky release for over 20 years. Proudly medium in style and weighing in at a low 9.3%alc/vol, the nose is laden with muscat, white flowers, orange zest and citrus.  The palate is lush and juicy with the sweetness you’d expect from a low alcohol wine – with a zesty core of ripe citrus fruits and crunchy apple flavours in full effect. There’s enough acidity on the finish to balance the equation and the lasting impression is bright, vibrant, juicy and fresh. It’s delicious. It’s moreish. And it’s just great fun. Open with a late afternoon platter of fruit and cheese, and watch as everyone jostles for a second glass.

Robert Mondavi Vint Buttery Chardonnay 2022 - California

Available from $23.99

Here’s one for fans of ‘the bigger the better’ American Chardonnay, from the famed Mondavi stable of Californian wines. Golden in the glass, and bursting with aromas of pineapple, peach, vanilla and sweet lemon tart, it promises a rich palate that amplifies those characters – and that’s exactly what you get in the glass. Oak aging and full malolactic fermentation has brought waves of creamy richness to a fulsome palate that fills the mouth with lemon brulee flavours. There’s a decent lick of acidity on the finish, but it’s those creamy fruits that remain centre stage from go to whoa. Even by Californian standards, this is full-on chardonnay. It carries some residual sugar and lacks any sort of elegance, but fans of this over-the-top style will find plenty to enjoy here.  Open a bottle with a grilled salmon dish to match those creamy characters but be warned: this showstopper isn’t for everyone. If you’re looking for refinement, best look elsewhere.

Novum Pinot Noir 2020 - Marlborough

Available from $46.99

This is the real deal; an excellent example of premium, small batch pinot noir from one of my favourite South Island producers. Under the watchful eye of William Hoare, Novum has delivered a very consistent series of wines since their inception, with their chardonnay and pinot noir both high on my list of the very best from Marlborough. This 2020 pinot looks especially sharp 4 years on from harvest. It shows classic regional pinot characters on the nose, with dark cherry and plum characters spiked with oak spice, and woody herbs opening the conversation. The palate is generously expressed and packed with detail. Savoury cherry and spicy red fruits fill the mouth, with slinky tannins and softly expressed acidity leaving a calming, soulful impression. It’s so accessible that you can happily enjoy it without food - and I’d suggest that you pair this lovely wine with a roaring open fire and great company.

Boccantino Susumaniello 2022 - Italy

Available from $21.99

Hailing from Salento in the southern ‘heel’ of Italy, this wonderful wine is definitely worth seeking out. Susumaniello is one of the rarer of the Italian grape varietals, which is hard to fathom given the immediate charm and sheer user-friendliness that the examples I have tasted to date have shown. Certainly this 2022 release from Boccantino is packed with flavour. It’s all spicy plum and black fruits on the nose, while the palate is broad and soft with those flavours ramped up and warmly expressed. It’s upfront and very attractive. It’s soft, smooth and supple – but dive a little deeper and you’ll see hints of barrel spice and woody herbs emerge. I loved it. Wines like this are right in my wheelhouse for a casual pasta dinner and a six pack of this well-priced Puglia red will be going home with me tonight.

Linden Estate Merlot 2020 - Hawke's Bay

Available from $17.99

Here’s this week’s bargain. 2020 was a very good vintage in Hawke’s Bay and Linden Estate has captured the potential of straight merlot with this well-made wine.  Aromatically it is very inviting, with a glossy amalgam of red and black fruits dominating a bouquet that is complexed with cocoa and spice / anise notes. The palate is very smooth and comforting – with the classic fruit flavours of good Hawke’s Bay Merlot supported by a luxe layer of mocha / chocolate. The finish shows soft acidity that keeps those luscious chocolate flavours ticking over, and the lasting impression here is very together and complete.  Wine of this calibre for $17.99 is a great find for careful shoppers. Open a bottle whenever you feel the need.

Welcome to this week’s column – a down to earth look at some interesting local and international releases that I have come across over the last few weeks.

Saint Clair Pioneer Block 12 Gewurztraminer 2023 - Marlborough

Available from $17.99

Following on from the wonderful Block 28 Pinot Blanc discussed in my last column, here is another striking release from Saint Clair’s excellent, single vineyard Pioneer Block series. Sadly, gewurztraminer is a varietal that doesn’t garner a lot of attention these days, but it remains a captivating style when the stars align, and this 2023 small batch release bursts with a classic medley of tropical fruits on the nose and palate. Look for a bouquet of lychee, ginger and Turkish Delight, and wait for those characters to flood a nicely textural palate that holds some residual sweetness and lingering spice. The finish is long and harmonious – with lemon zest and soft acidity playing off against those juicy, off-dry fruit flavours. Excellent wine. Match with chili spiked Asian dishes at the next available opportunity.

Awakohu Pinot Gris 2023 - Gisborne

Available from $12.99

Here’s another bargain from the value-driven Awakohu range. Vinted in a clean, fresh style, this 2023 release brings punchy layers of pear, red apple and semi-ripe peach together in a just off-dry palate that shows good texture and presence in the mouth. Those generous Gisborne fruits turn up the volume, while a crisp vein of zingy acidity keeps the conversation focused and on point. There are some subtle hints of baking spice if you go looking for them, but this is pinot gris to enjoy in casual settings without too much contemplation. Like any wine operating in the Quaffer Zone, it’s designed to be a relatively straightforward ‘crowd pleaser’ – but with so many of the pinot gris options I see in this price point looking flabby and lifeless, it’s refreshing to see some vibrancy and vigour in the glass. I’d match it with a rocket, pear and walnut salad with some panfried gurnard on the side. Or book club. Your choice.

Brunton Estate Grace Chardonnay 2020 - Gisborne

Available from $18.99

This is a very good example of barrel-fermented chardonnay and another wine that showcases the amplified fruit weight that Gisborne grapes bring to the party. On the nose it’s all about those peachy Gisborne Chardonnay fruit characters, with some barrel spice and sweet citrus making themselves known. The palate is fulsome, creamy and packed with detail. Winemaker Mark Thompson has done a great job here, and while those ripe peach flavours do most of the heavy lifting, flavours of baking spice, almond, and butterscotch all have their part to play.  Already looking very integrated for a relatively young wine, this 2020 release will continue to develop over the coming 5+ years – when those gorgeous lemon-butter and crème brûlée flavours will really make themselves known. Chardonnay is one of the most versatile food wines on the planet, but I’d go for a traditional roast chook with this little winner.

McArthur Ridge Brassknocker Pinot Noir 2022 - Central Otago

Available from $23.99

The rise of the McArthur Ridge brand has been nothing short of stratospheric since Matt Connell took over the head winemaker role. His wines have been cleaning up major awards on both local and international stages and no one could possibly argue that McArthur Ridge are now in any conversation of the hottest producers in Central Otago. The 2022 Brassknocker Pinot definitely walks the talk. The wine is very aromatic with notes of black cherry, redcurrant, cocoa and sweet oak to the fore. The palate is supple and flowing – but elegantly expressed – and the lasting impression is very balanced and complete. Available under $25, it is tremendous value. Match with good company, an open fire and a slinky soundtrack. Cellar over the coming 3-5 years to see a deeper broodiness emerge.

Alpha Domus The Navigator Merlot Cabernet 2019 - Hawke's Bay

Available from $29.99

It’s always a pleasure to revisit some of the classic Hawke’s Bay labels – especially when Navigator has long been a sentimental favourite for me. For my money, it has always been stonking good buying – with levels of complexity and character that far exceed the bottle price – and the 2019 undoubtedly lives up to that mantra with this well-rounded release. Merlot dominant (with cabernet sauvignon, malbec, and petit verdot completing the blend), it shows an amalgam of red and black fruits on the nose, with hints of anise and tobacco adding a spicy touch. The palate is medium-bodied and softly expressed – with slinky tannins and creamy acidity bringing things to a very rewarding close. Only now entering its ideal drinking window, this well-made wine would be a fine partner for roasted meats and vegetables on a cold winter’s night.

Pontifex Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2018 - Australia

Available from $36.99

Regular readers of this column will know how enamoured I am with GSM blends. The Holy Trinity of grenache, syrah and mourvèdre comes in many forms, from many countries, and I love them all.  Australia arguably produces the most powerfully weighted GSMs - and this 2018 Pontifex release is an ‘all guns blazing’ style that comes packed to the hilt with flavour and charm.  It’s a lovely expression that marries the upfront, glossy fruits of the grenache component with the drier and more structured inputs of shiraz and mourvèdre. It’s soft, smooth and immediately appealing, but maintains your interest throughout. Deep dive past those dazzling red and black fruits and you’ll find nuances of woody herbs, green tobacco, and oak spice. Match with a smoky beef burger and your best zingy barbecue sauce immediately.

Welcome to this week’s column – a down to earth look at some interesting local and international releases that I have come across over the last few weeks.

Saint Clair Pioneer Block 28 Pinot Blanc 2022 - Marlborough

Available from $18.99

Pinot blanc is not so well known in New Zealand - but there have been some excellent examples produced here over the years, and this is one of them. Though it’s a white wine, pinot blanc is a genetic mutation of pinot noir- and is typically a floral, lightly spicy style with flavours in the apple / stonefruit spectrum and good acidity on the finish. That’s exactly what is on offer here – but some very attractive honeyed notes have crept into the palate, giving texture and presence to a 2022 release that already brims with confidence. Lingering spice notes complete a pretty compelling argument to add this wine to your collection. Match with white meats or creamy shellfish dishes for a winter treat.

LV Oaked Aged Sauvignon Blanc 2019 - Marlborough

Available from $22.99

Produced by Marlborough stalwarts Louis Vavasour, the LV range celebrates an ‘all guns blazing’ attitude to winemaking, and this boldly flavoured wine certainly walks on a different side of the street than the vast majority of its sauvignon contemporaries. Offered for sale in luxe, super heavyweight glass, this wine makes quite the statement on the table and that initial visual impression is backed up with a wildly complex example of oak-aged sauvignon blanc. You could describe this as ‘sauvignon blanc for chardonnays lovers’ – but it’s a much better wine than that simple description suggests. Look for layers of smoky grapefruit and citrus notes on the nose, complexed with toasty barrel and baking spice aromas. Those primary characters flow through to a very textural palate that’s full of interest and swagger. The finish is long and refined, and the overall impression here is truly satisfying. It’s been a long time since I have bought a six pack of sauvignon blanc, but one of these will be going home with me. Bring on a creamy, smoked fish pie for a match made in heaven.

Brunton Estate Golden Queen Chardonnay 2021 - Gisborne

Available from $14.99

If ever a wine tasted like its name, this is it. Produced from whole bunch pressed Mendoza fruit, this very sharply priced chardonnay explodes on the nose and palate with bottled Golden Queen peach characters. 2021 was a brilliant vintage in Gisborne and the optimal fruit ripeness achieved in the vineyards is here for all to taste. Full malolactic ferment has added loads of creamy texture to proceedings, and while some obvious oak influence has bought another area of interest into play, those bold, juicy peach characters remain the star of the show throughout. The wine was described by the winemaker as “Kiwi Chardonnay for American Chardonnay fans”, and its hard to argue with his perspective. Put a roast chook in the oven immediately.

Via Terra Selection Organic Garnacha 2020 - Spain

Available from $18.99

I have a long held soft spot for the easy ways of Spanish Grenache, and constantly recommend it as a value alternative to entry level New Zealand Pinot Noir - a category that seldom pushes any buttons for me. Glossy and bright, Via Terra is a rounded, silky expression of organic grenache that brings masses of red and black fruits and touches of green herbage and anise into play. Slinky tannins and good acidity further elevate this release above the rest of the pack, but the sheer ‘user-friendliness’ of Spanish Grenache remains the key attribute. This would be a great option to bust out when the gang gathers for a casual glass, or to match with a deli-platter or tomato based mediterranean fare. Great value.

Elephant Hill Reserve Merlot Cabernet 2018 - Hawke's Bay

Available from $29.99

Any Elephant Hill wine from their esteemed Reserve range is sure to garner my attention, but it’s always an added pleasure tasting their blended Reserve reds a few years on from harvest. 2018 was a solid vintage in Hawke’s Bay and this refined release shows all the benefits of bottle age, looking considerably more fulsome and detailed than it was on first release. Blended from 86% merlot, 9% cabernet sauvignon and 5% cabernet franc from a combination of Gimblett Gravels and Bridge Pa fruit, it opens with plum and blackcurrant characters on the nose with a wonderful array of leather, tobacco, and wood spice adding a little bit of extra magic. Though broader and deeper now, the palate remains elegantly expressed, with supple tannins and soft acidity bringing things to a very harmonious close. Excellent, thoughtful wine.

Francis Ford Coppola Diamond Collection Zinfandel 2020 - California

Available from $29.99

This is a textbook rendition of fleshy Californian Zinfandel from the stable of wines originally produced by famed Hollywood movie director, Francis Ford Coppola. Now under the ownership of Delicato Family Wines, this 2020 release is a classic Coppola ‘Zin’ – boldly weighted, with masses of savoury cherry / strawberry fruits and rich Christmas cake flavours leading the charge. All sorts of spicy characters make up the second wave, with anise and pepper the main players. Though not necessarily ‘a big wine’ by Californian standards, there is still boatloads of action going on here – and zinfandel disciples will find plenty to enjoy here. Match with a spicy venison casserole or a fat, peppered steak to elevate it to a higher plane.

Welcome to this week’s column – a down to earth look at some interesting local and international releases that I have come across over the last few weeks.

Combe Rocher Reserve Pays d'Oc Rosé 2022 - France

Available from $19.99

This is a lovely example of modern Mediterranean Rosé from the Pays d’Oc region of Southern France. Vinted from grenache, this is a crunchy, vibrant expression with a textbook bouquet of red fruits, white flowers and citrus. The palate is just a kiss off bone-dry, and the central core of semi-ripe red fruits is balanced with a juicier element from those glossy grenache grapes. That ‘glossiness’ brings a luxe feeling to proceedings, elevating this 2022 release above the vast majority of the French Rosés I have tasted in this price band this year. Fresh acidity and a touch of mineral salinity rounds off the finish, and the result is both deliciously fresh and very well balanced – a perfect rosé option to enjoy with or without food. It comes highly recommended.

Waimea Sauvignon Blanc 2022 - Nelson

Available from $12.99

Never fall into the trap of thinking that good New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc doesn’t have the ability to age gracefully. Two years on from harvest this lush 2022 Waimea release is looking particularly sharp and still has years of gas left in the tank. Personally, I far prefer Kiwi Sauvignons with at least a year’s bottle age, when that initial, overt acidity has dialed down a bit and the wine takes on a softer, less aggressive stance. That’s definitely what’s going on here. The zip and zing of Nelson Sauvignon remains in full effect, but the passionfruit and tropical fruits the region is so well known for shine a bit clearer with that racy acidity running less interference. Some subtle herbal and tomato leaf tinges add a complexing touch on the nose and palate – and there is certainly a lot of good things going on in the glass here. An absolute bargain for sauvignon disciples to seek out.

Calmel & Joseph Collection Chardonnay 2022 – France

Available from $19.99

The explosion of quality winemaking in southern France over the last two decades has revolutionised French wine exports - with Pays d’Oc and the wider Languedoc-Roussillon region responsible for a plethora of truly rewarding labels.  And it’s not just ‘Provence-esque’ Rosé making waves in the international market. Rock solid releases like this lovely Calmel & Joseph Chardonnay are gaining wide attention as a value alternative to the more expensive Burgundian options. From the 2022 vintage, this is a fine example of middleweight French Chardonnay with plenty of creamy palate weight and detail packed into the glass. Oak aging in seasoned barrels has added plush texture and spice to the wine, but those clean chardonnay fruits remain the star of the show. It's warm and friendly chardonnay with the generosity that New Zealanders are typically drawn to, while a touch of minerality on the finish brings a layer of extra sophistication.

Anciano Tempranillo Classico 2020 - Spain

Available from $16.99

The Anciano range, imported into New Zealand by the inimitable Steve Bennett MW, has a well won reputation with Spanish wine fans in the New Zealand market, and this juicy tempranillo is another Anciano wine to add to your must try list. Vinted from 30-year-old vines, this is a middleweight expression made for any occasion drinking. The inherent ‘user-friendliness’ of tempranillo’s spicy, fleshy red and black fruits is immediately apparent, making it a great ‘one size fits all‘ option to open on a mid-week night when you’re after something interesting and satisfying - but you don’t want to push the boat out too far. While this is technically a dry wine, those supple tempranillo fruits and mellow tannins mean you don’t need food to pour yourself a glass but match it with Mediterranean dishes for added enjoyment. Great value.

Theory & Practice Merlot 2020 - Hawke's Bay

Available from $16.99

Produced by respected Hawke’s Bay based winemaker Ant Mackenzie, this is polished, highly detailed merlot from the excellent 2020 growing season.  Notes of blackcurrant, plum, vanilla and graphite show on the nose and flow through to a silky, full-bodied palate that brims with character and charm. Touches of ‘pencil lead’ and sweet mocha bring complexity and further interest to the party, while the finish is long and fresh, with slinky tannins and layers of creamy acidity. This is good wine – and no one could argue that buying wine of this calibre under the key $20 mark is a godsend for fans of small batch Hawke’s Bay reds. Put a couple of bottles on the table the next time you have the family around for a classic roast and wait for the compliments on your wine choice to come your way.

Taylors Historical Collection Reserve Tawny Port – Portugal

Available from $68.99

A decadent glass of Port at the end of a memorable meal is a fast-dying ritual in this part of the world, so I wanted to remind you of the sheer joy that a glass of decent Port can offer.  The Taylor's Historical series is a collection of specially blended, cask-aged Ports presented in exclusive bespoke bottles inspired by historic bottle moulds.  ‘The Mallet’ is the third wine in the series and is an assemblage from Taylor’s extensive aged tawny stocks. Opulent, rich and mellow, it comes loaded with plum and raisin characters that are complexed with oak spice and cashew / hazelnut notes. It fills every crevice of your palate with these flavours – with a warming finish that moves into the caramel, sweet toffee spectrum. Match with roasted nuts and hard cheeses at the end of the night and wait for the angels to chime in.

Welcome to this week’s column – a down to earth look at some interesting local and international releases that I have come across over the last few weeks.

The BoneLine Sauvignon Blanc 2023 - Waipara

Available from $28.99

If you’re looking for a new sauvignon blanc to try, and don’t mind paying a bit extra for something extra good, this 2023 release from The Boneline gets two thumbs up from me. I have a long-held love affair with the aromatic wines of North Canterbury’s Waipara sub-region. Fruit from this special place carries a generosity and lushness that few other places in New Zealand can match - and while this Boneline Sauvignon has been fermented to dry, those juicy Waipara fruits shine like a diamond here. Partial fermentation in seasoned oak has added extra weight and texture, but the tropical flavours the world loves in New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc are kept fresh and pristine. Some herbal tinges and mineral salinity add a complex touch on the finish. The fruit / acid balance is very harmonious. Everything is pushing in the same direction. This is lovely wine from a quality producer, and well worth seeking out.

Waimea Sauvignon Gris 2023 - Nelson

Available from $19.99

Sauvignon gris has its spiritual home in Bordeaux, where it was discovered as a clonal mutation of sauvignon blanc. It has a pink tinge to the grapes – like pinot gris - and in our local vineyards it typically produces crisp, dry wines that are full of vibrant fruit characters, but without the overt exuberance that New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is so famous for. This example from Waimea certainly follows those guidelines, adding plenty of crisp apple and white stonefruits to a palate that is complemented with herbal and white flower aromas. Texturally, it carries a bit more palate weight than the ubiquitous sauvignon blanc model, and this example has a nice waxy, honeysuckle note that adds an extra bit of magic. A soft line of fresh acidity rounds things out, and if you’re looking for a sauvignon blanc alternative, this delicious wine is well worth a punt. Match with a deli-platter laden with soft cheeses the next time the gang call around.

Empirical Chardonnay 2019 - Hawke's Bay

Available from $29.99

Here’s a real showstopper. Produced by the international Constellation Brands conglomerate, this is an all-out attempt to capture the power that Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay is capable of. Certainly, the heavy, tissue-wrapped bottles and lavishly embossed labels create a big first impression – and the palate lives up to the hype with a tour de force display of small batch chardonnay winemaking. The nose is full of the classic characters of barrel fermented chardonnay. It’s loaded with lemon, sizzled butter, and yeasty characters with some reductive gun smoke / flinty notes and obvious oak spice adding complexity. The palate is full-bodied and looking very harmonious 5 years on from harvest – but maintains a good sense of dignity and isn’t too ‘showboaty’ or over the top. This luxuriously framed Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay is sure to find an adoring audience with ‘old school’ chardonnay fans. That includes me, by the way. I grabbed a six pack.

Cognoscente Pinot Noir 2020 - Marlborough

Available from $16.99

Well-known Hawke’s Bay Winemaker Ant Mackenzie has a knack for putting lots of flavour in the wines he oversees, and this 2020 Marlborough Pinot Noir is another release that carries his signature touch. It’s a broody and savoury release that, in my book, could easily be confused for an upper end Martinborough label. It’s full of dark cherry and game flavours with some darker black and blue fruit characters entering the conversation as the wine moves through the mouth. Elements of baking spice and hard green herbs bring in some extra interest, and sit above a supple palate that flows with good weight and plenty of ready charm. Excellent value. 

Azabache Organic Rioja 2020 - Spain

Available from $21.99

You have to love a good Rioja. It’s such a lovely ‘one size fits all’ wine style that brings the sheer user-friendliness of tempranillo to centre stage – and in this case Azabache adds a supporting act of garnacha and graciano into the performance. This 2020 release is very aromatic with layers of spicy dark fruits, oak and toasted nuts on the nose. Those flavours transition to a dry, medium-bodied palate that sees lots of tannin and acid action, and a satisfying finish that really goes the distance.  Those firm tannins make this a wine that should be enjoyed with food, and this solid expression would be a fine match for hearty mediterranean dishes - or hard cheese at the end of a meal.

Calmel and Joseph Collection Syrah 2022 - France

Available from $19.99

This is very rewarding southern French Syrah from Calmel and Joseph - who have been making wine in the Languedoc-Roussillon sub region since 1995. This is an instantly appealing, unashamedly modern style with lots of sweetly ripe flavours framed in a very generous, rounded palate that brims with strawberry, blackberry and spicy dark fruits. I picked up some subtle mocha and vanilla hints in the mix, but more obvious is a creamy texture that brings a luxe character not normally seen in French reds at this price point. The tannins are integrated and softly expressed, making this a lovely choice for casual, any occasion drinking – especially when you are looking for something truly satisfying but don’t want to push the boat out too far.

Welcome to this week’s column – a down to earth look at some interesting local and international releases that I have come across over the last few weeks.

Decibel Giunta Pinot Gris 2022 - Hawke's Bay

Available from $15.99

Let’s kick off this column with a great value offering from Decibel’s, Dan Brennan. Vinted in a very attractive, fragrant style, this 2022 Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris is a zesty, friendly release that brings classic flavours of pear, apple and nectarine to the party. Initially crunchy and dry, the conversation widens to a juicier state with a subtle hint of fruit sweetness adding a luxe touch to the mid-palate. The finish is long and bright, with those off-dry pear and citrus characters ever present. I really liked how this wine shows plenty of varietal character and texture but remained fresh and light in the mouth – and the cool labels complete a compelling argument to get on board. It comes highly recommended.

Wairau River Sauvignon Blanc 2023 - Marlborough

Available from $16.99

As I have said many times, sauvignon blanc drinkers are blessed in this country. There aren’t many wine categories around the globe where buyers can pick up a world class example of their favourite varietal for well under twenty dollars, but we have a plethora of great options to choose from – and the 2023 Wairau River is one option in banging form. Quality sauvignon blanc is all about exuberant tropical fruits, great texture and a magical balance between those punchy fruits and the acid component. When everything comes together – as they have with this release – the total far exceeds the sum of its parts.  Throw in a lick of mineral complexity and it’s all on. Match with a pot of freshly steamed mussels spiked with chili and ginger for a classic Marlborough combo.

Zaria Chardonnay 2022 - Hawke's Bay

Available from $32.99

Zaria is a small Hawke’s Bay producer gaining a real following for their well-made, thoughtful wines. Befitting their boutique status, their wines typically have a ‘hand-crafted’ feeling about them and this lovely 2022 chardonnay was certainly a pleasure to taste. Barrel-fermentation in French oak (20% new) and full malolactic ferment has brought weight and texture to this wine, but freshness and vibrancy remain the calling cards here. Stonefruit and grapefruit characters dominate the nose and palate – and those tangy grapefruit flavours drive things towards a long finish that combines some creamy elements under that solid citrus core. It’s a thoroughly modern expression and a credit to winemaker Bryce Edmonds and his team. For such a young wine, it’s already looking quite harmonious but tuck a few bottles away for a few years and some magic is sure to unfold.

Wine Gringo Grenache Nouveau 2023 - Australia

Available from $14.99

Though Kiwis have been a bit slow on the uptake, lighter-bodied chilled red wines are becoming mainstream in global markets, as buyers discover the simple joys of this deliciously satisfying wine style. Produced from South Australian Grenache, Wine Gringo would be an excellent place to start on your chilled red journey. It’s a fleshy, flowing release that showcases the natural cherry and sweet plum flavours of grenache without the tannin and acidity you would normally associate with this varietal. Glossy mouthfeel and sheer drinkability is the order of the day here, and the secret is to serve the wine chilled but not too cold. I’d put a bottle in the fridge half an hour before you need it – and serve it as an aperitif with a sunny autumn lunch. Expect to watch that initial skepticism on your guests’ faces fade into nods of appreciation. Happy days. 

Little Giant Grenache 2022 - Australia

Available from $21.99

Playing the grenache model with a significantly straighter bat than Wine Gringo, is this excellent release from Little Giant – a wildly popular label produced under the watchful eye of South Australian wine empresario, Corey Ryan. Vinted from McLaren Vale fruit, this is a full-bodied, rounded wine with those glossy dark grenache fruits in full effect. As the Aussies say, ‘grenache delivers what pinot noir promises’ and if you think of this wine like an amplified version of broody, old school Central Otago Pinot Noir, you’re on the right track. It’s plush and juicy. It’s dark and attractive. And it’s a wine style that needs more exposure in the New Zealand market. I am a longstanding fan of McLaren Vale Grenache, and whenever I pour a glass for friends, the comments are always positive. Throw in the cute squat bottles, and you can’t go wrong here.

Badia al Colle Appasssimento Puglia IGT 2021 - Italy

Available from $19.99

It’s always good to finish these columns with a bit of a showstopper, and this 2021 Puglia blend certainly foots that bill. A full-bodied, very generous amalgam of negroamaro (80%) and primitivo, this wine come from the Apulia region in Southern Italy.  Those sultry, dark flavours of negroamaro have been further concentrated with the addition of a sun-dried fruit component – while the primitivo aspect of the blend brings brighter red fruits and plenty of spice. It’s a recipe that works particularly well. Those appassimento / sun-dried flavours bring a rich, dark caramel character on the palate – and they act as a natural counterpoint to the tannins on the finish. A hint of vanillin oak adds another layer of decadence as the wine moves through the mouth, but the lasting impression here is all Italian power and grace. If you’re looking for a well-priced, powerful European red to accompany a hearty main course, this would be a brilliant option.

Welcome to this week’s column – a down to earth look at some interesting local and international releases that I have come across over the last few weeks.

JK.14 Ombra Prosecco DOC Brut NV - Italy

Available from $23.99

The JK.14 brand is a fast-growing side hustle for Sir John Kirwan and his family. Kirwan’s association with Italy and his love of Italian food and wine is well documented, so a foray into wine importation was always on the cards. The business model is to rebrand or co-brand with wines that have caught his eye, and the standard of wines I have tasted from his portfolio has been consistently high. This DOC Prosecco is a lovely wine. Vinted from Treviso fruit, it’s an engaging, dry expression with creamy mouthfeel and flavours in the ripe citrus spectrum, with some underlying hazelnut complexity. Soft acidity closes the show and the lasting impression here is fresh and uncomplicated – but ultimately very pleasing. It’s a perfect wine to kick off a late afternoon drinks party – and of course the Kirwan family links provide an easy conversation starter.

Odyssey Chardonnay 2022 -  Gisborne

Available from $21.99

Vigneron Rebecca Salmond has built up an enviable following for her brand after launching the Odyssey label in 1994. Chardonnay has consistently been her trump card over those 30 years. The Odyssey style is ripe and complex, but with more finesse and vibrancy than you would normally associate with Gisborne Chardonnay – and this 2022 estate chardonnay certainly sings from that well-practiced song sheet. Barrel and partial malolactic fermentation have done their job and delivered a wine with good texture and presence. The classic regional peach and stone fruit flavours of Gisborne Chardonnay are always front and centre and supported on the palate with a lightly creamy texture and hints of oak spice. This is a smart wine that is showing very well in its youth – especially given the lesser growing season. Throw a lemon spiked roast chicken in the oven as soon as possible.

Awakohu Rosé 2023 - Hawke's Bay

Available from $12.99

Here’s an absolute bargain. Produced from Hawke’s Bay Merlot, with a splash of pinot noir adding extra freshness and flow, this new release from Awakohu is looking very sharp indeed. Attractive in the glass with glowing, light-salmon hues, this 2023 rosé has a bouquet that brims with strawberry, watermelon, and cranberry notes – while a kiss of confectionary adds a subtle touch of decadence. Those characters carry on to an essentially dry palate that’s laden with those crunchy red summer fruits. A juicy and more generous texture on the mid-palate adds a luxe element while the finish is crisp and long with soft, rounded acidity. This is good, obviously well-made wine – especially given the price it sells at. Great value.

Linden Estate Pinotage 2020 - Hawke's Bay

Available from $17.99

With its spiritual home in South Africa, pinotage was created 100 years ago by crossing pinot noir with cinsault. Though still wildly popular there, it’s a relatively rare varietal in New Zealand, and our pinotage is middleweight by South African standards (where it typically has Australian Shiraz-like proportions). 2020 was an excellent vintage in Hawke’s Bay and this interesting wine is looking bolder and more robust than previous vintages I have tried. On the nose it’s gamey and dark fruited, with some obvious spice and herbal elements. On the palate those fruits are expressed in a savoury fashion with plenty of grippy, tannic structure. The finish shows good length and plenty of acid – but this is definitely a food wine, that needs some hearty cooking to counter those robust layers of tannin and acidity. It would be a wonderful match with slow roasted venison or duck – especially if they were prepared with lots of sage and rosemary. 

Deen de Bortoli Vat 8 Shiraz - Australia

Available from $16.99

Here’s an outright winner that you need to put in your shopping list. This unassuming little red fell into the limelight last year when Cuisine Magazine gave it their #1 ranking in their annual Australian Shiraz tasting. Results like that can do wonders for an entry level brand like de Bortoli’s ‘Deen’ label, and consequently, a large part of de Bortoli’s stock of this wine ended up being sold in New Zealand. Now, 6 years on from harvest, it’s certainly a very satisfying wine. Notes of blue and black berry fruits show on the nose with some mocha and spicy barrel complexity. The palate is warm and surprisingly full-bodied with masses of ripe fruits and sweet oak. Bottle aging has done its work, and some nice secondary characters are starting to show. The finish is long and harmonious, with fruit weight, tannin and acidity all nicely aligned. It’s the ultimate bargain. If you see this wine, buy it. End of story.

Boccantino Nero d’Avola Nerello Mascalese 2019 – Italy

Available from $21.99

Let’s finish this column with a bang. This excellent 2019 Boccantino release is a blend of two Sicilian varietals - nero d’avola and nerello mascalese. Nero d’avola – the most important Sicilian variety - provides weighty, dark, rounded flavours of black fruits, and brings the power and glossy palate-flow to the party. Nerello mascalese offers brightness and freshness to the blend, with a pinot-noir-like savoury cherry character. It also brings the acidity that makes this impressive wine such a winner with food. Now entering its ideal dinking window, this wine will continue to age gracefully over the coming 8-10 years. Match it with a strong cheese course after a hearty dinner for a memorable conclusion to a good night with friends.

Welcome to this week’s column – a down to earth look at some interesting local and international releases that I have come across over the last few weeks.

Blackenbrook Sauvignon Blanc 2023 - Nelson

Available from $19.99

The Schwarzenbach family has been producing wine in Nelson under the Blackenbrook masthead since the early 2000s, and I have always been a fan of their ‘stay small and improve quality’ approach.  Given their geographical position, sauvignon has long been a trump card for the Blackenbrook team, and the house style is a fairly serious one – dry, and tight with pronounced minerality and bright acid structure. Certainly, those characteristics are there in full effect with this very good 2023 release. Throw in some punchy, regional tropical fruits, a touch of salinity and an undercard of green herbage, and there’s plenty to like here. It’s an expression that needs food to be seen at its best – with fresh shellfish an obvious choice. Give that combo a crack on a sunny autumn afternoon and wash the worries of the world away.

Spy Valley Pinot Gris 2022 - Marlborough

Available from $23.99

Famously named after the Waihopai spy base that’s just down the road from the winery, Spy Valley have carved out an enviable reputation for their energetic wines – with a brace of aromatic whites leading the charge. Just a kiss off-dry, this 2022 release is a fine representation of modern Marlborough Pinot Gris. It shows an amalgam of semi-ripe pear and zingy ginger flavours wrapped up in a plush palate that has rounded weight and mouthfeel. The finish has good length and softly expressed acidity - with those spicy ginger and juicy pear characters present all the way. I’d love to try a bottle with a baked smoked salmon– especially one that has been elevated with a spicy miso glaze. (Note to self: this weekend!)

Whitehaven Pinot Noir Rosé 2023 - Marlborough

Available from $23.99

Produced from a blend of Southern Valleys and Raupara Pinot Noir fruit, this dry rosé is a typically refined effort from Whitehaven. The colour is wonderful. With so many New Zealand producers going down a Provence lookalike / ‘pale as possible’ rabbit hole, it’s nice to see some inviting colour in the glass – and this 2023 release radiates with inviting salmon hues. It’s equally inviting on the nose with notes of red summer fruits to the fore, while the palate shows crunchy red fruits in the strawberry, cranberry and watermelon spectrum. Some subtle touches of baking spice complex the palate, but this wine remains all about those dry red fruits and the long, fresh finish line they wander towards. It’s delicious.

Doctors Flat Pinot Noir 2020 - Central Otago

Available from $56.99

This is excellent small batch, organic pinot noir from well-known Central Otago winemaker, Steve Davies. Vinted from a tiny 3ha block in Bannockburn, everything about this wine has been micro-managed to extract the full potential of a special growing site. The 2020 is another excellent effort; a polished, savoury wine that shows classic dark cherry flavours with lovely palate flow and underlying touches of oak and fruit spice. For such a young wine, the finish is wonderfully soft and velvety – but don’t let that fool you. Though already looking very integrated and complete, this wine has been vinted to go the distance. Cellar over the coming decade for added complexity and the chance to see those Central Otago Pinot Noir fruits develop some darker, secondary magic. Great value – and an absolute steal by global pinot noir standards. 

Bonpas Dames de Bonpas Cotes du Rhone Villages Plan de Dieu 2021 - France

Available from $24.99

On the subject of outright bargains, here is another wine that completely outperforms its price point – in fact it’s hard to understand how Cotes du Rhone of this calibre can come halfway around the world and be sold here in New Zealand for under $30. Grenache dominant, with a healthy dose of syrah rounding out the blend, this is deeply savoury Rhone red with lots going on the glass. Those exuberant, glossy grenache flavours have been dialed down to showcase their more serious side, while the syrah component adds structure, length and dryness to the conversation. It’s packed with cherry and spicy plum flavours and the tannins are long and fine. It’s one of those wines that effortlessly straddles the gap between pure pleasure and savoury, structured charm – a real gem that is sure to take your palate to a higher plane. I bought a case.

Some Young Punks Passion by Punks Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 - Australia

Available from $18.99

The funky name and pulp fiction labels may lead you to think you’ll be walking on the wild side of the street, but Some Young Punks collaborators Col McBryde and Jen Gardner, take the winemaking side of their craft very seriously than their branding suggests. They have carved out a real name for themselves in the South Australian scene, and this delightful, small batch McLaren Vale blend has been given all the love and attention in the vineyard and winery. Dominated by shiraz (85%) this is lush, fulsome red with plenty of swagger and confidence. The cabernet component brings dryness and some nice tobacco herbal hints to the finish, but that driving shiraz percentage is always centre stage. This is smart, well-made Aussie red. Match with hearty roasted meats and vegetables as we head into the cooler months. You’ll be very pleased you did.