Mac's Picks 18 May 2024
Mac's Picks 18 May 2024
18/05/2024
Welcome to this week’s column – a down to earth look at some interesting local and international releases that I have come across over the last few weeks.
The BoneLine Sauvignon Blanc 2023 - Waipara
Available from $28.99
If you’re looking for a new sauvignon blanc to try, and don’t mind paying a bit extra for something extra good, this 2023 release from The Boneline gets two thumbs up from me. I have a long-held love affair with the aromatic wines of North Canterbury’s Waipara sub-region. Fruit from this special place carries a generosity and lushness that few other places in New Zealand can match - and while this Boneline Sauvignon has been fermented to dry, those juicy Waipara fruits shine like a diamond here. Partial fermentation in seasoned oak has added extra weight and texture, but the tropical flavours the world loves in New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc are kept fresh and pristine. Some herbal tinges and mineral salinity add a complex touch on the finish. The fruit / acid balance is very harmonious. Everything is pushing in the same direction. This is lovely wine from a quality producer, and well worth seeking out.
Waimea Sauvignon Gris 2023 - Nelson
Available from $19.99
Sauvignon gris has its spiritual home in Bordeaux, where it was discovered as a clonal mutation of sauvignon blanc. It has a pink tinge to the grapes – like pinot gris - and in our local vineyards it typically produces crisp, dry wines that are full of vibrant fruit characters, but without the overt exuberance that New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is so famous for. This example from Waimea certainly follows those guidelines, adding plenty of crisp apple and white stonefruits to a palate that is complemented with herbal and white flower aromas. Texturally, it carries a bit more palate weight than the ubiquitous sauvignon blanc model, and this example has a nice waxy, honeysuckle note that adds an extra bit of magic. A soft line of fresh acidity rounds things out, and if you’re looking for a sauvignon blanc alternative, this delicious wine is well worth a punt. Match with a deli-platter laden with soft cheeses the next time the gang call around.
Empirical Chardonnay 2019 - Hawke's Bay
Available from $29.99
Here’s a real showstopper. Produced by the international Constellation Brands conglomerate, this is an all-out attempt to capture the power that Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay is capable of. Certainly, the heavy, tissue-wrapped bottles and lavishly embossed labels create a big first impression – and the palate lives up to the hype with a tour de force display of small batch chardonnay winemaking. The nose is full of the classic characters of barrel fermented chardonnay. It’s loaded with lemon, sizzled butter, and yeasty characters with some reductive gun smoke / flinty notes and obvious oak spice adding complexity. The palate is full-bodied and looking very harmonious 5 years on from harvest – but maintains a good sense of dignity and isn’t too ‘showboaty’ or over the top. This luxuriously framed Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay is sure to find an adoring audience with ‘old school’ chardonnay fans. That includes me, by the way. I grabbed a six pack.
Cognoscente Pinot Noir 2020 - Marlborough
Available from $16.99
Well-known Hawke’s Bay Winemaker Ant Mackenzie has a knack for putting lots of flavour in the wines he oversees, and this 2020 Marlborough Pinot Noir is another release that carries his signature touch. It’s a broody and savoury release that, in my book, could easily be confused for an upper end Martinborough label. It’s full of dark cherry and game flavours with some darker black and blue fruit characters entering the conversation as the wine moves through the mouth. Elements of baking spice and hard green herbs bring in some extra interest, and sit above a supple palate that flows with good weight and plenty of ready charm. Excellent value.
Azabache Organic Rioja 2020 - Spain
Available from $21.99
You have to love a good Rioja. It’s such a lovely ‘one size fits all’ wine style that brings the sheer user-friendliness of tempranillo to centre stage – and in this case Azabache adds a supporting act of garnacha and graciano into the performance. This 2020 release is very aromatic with layers of spicy dark fruits, oak and toasted nuts on the nose. Those flavours transition to a dry, medium-bodied palate that sees lots of tannin and acid action, and a satisfying finish that really goes the distance. Those firm tannins make this a wine that should be enjoyed with food, and this solid expression would be a fine match for hearty mediterranean dishes - or hard cheese at the end of a meal.
Calmel and Joseph Collection Syrah 2022 - France
Available from $19.99
This is very rewarding southern French Syrah from Calmel and Joseph - who have been making wine in the Languedoc-Roussillon sub region since 1995. This is an instantly appealing, unashamedly modern style with lots of sweetly ripe flavours framed in a very generous, rounded palate that brims with strawberry, blackberry and spicy dark fruits. I picked up some subtle mocha and vanilla hints in the mix, but more obvious is a creamy texture that brings a luxe character not normally seen in French reds at this price point. The tannins are integrated and softly expressed, making this a lovely choice for casual, any occasion drinking – especially when you are looking for something truly satisfying but don’t want to push the boat out too far.