Mac's Picks 13 July 2024
Mac's Picks 13 July 2024
13/07/2024
Welcome to this week’s column – a down to earth look at some interesting local and international releases that I have come across over the last few weeks.
Nautilus Albarino 2023 - Marlborough
Available from $26.99
Albeit coming off a very small base, we are seeing a surge in albarino labels in our local market, with a few enthusiastic wineries keen to pronounce this lesser-known varietal as ‘the next big thing’ in New Zealand white wine production. Albarino’s spiritual home is in Galicia in Northwestern Spain. There it is typically a bone-dry style that shines with tension and racy acidity. It’s a food wine that is known as a great match with seafood – especially shellfish – and the same can be said for the Kiwi versions I have tasted to date. Nautilus 2023 is a very good example of what I now see as the New Zealand Albarino model. It’s a bit softer and more fruit driven than its Spanish counterparts, with a noticeable floral aspect to the nose and a rounder expression of citrus and green melon on the palate. Plenty of fresh acidity cleans up the finish while a touch of mineral salinity balances out some of those fleshy melon characters. Open a bottle with some fresh oysters for a special treat or match with a simple fish crudo for an elegant entrée.
Rockford White Frontignac 2023 - Australia
Available from $38.99
The Barossa isn’t the first place the springs to mind when you’re thinking of delicate white wines, but Rockford – a much-storied Australian winery – have carved out quite the reputation for their White Frontignac, and this writer has been a fan of this quirky release for over 20 years. Proudly medium in style and weighing in at a low 9.3%alc/vol, the nose is laden with muscat, white flowers, orange zest and citrus. The palate is lush and juicy with the sweetness you’d expect from a low alcohol wine – with a zesty core of ripe citrus fruits and crunchy apple flavours in full effect. There’s enough acidity on the finish to balance the equation and the lasting impression is bright, vibrant, juicy and fresh. It’s delicious. It’s moreish. And it’s just great fun. Open with a late afternoon platter of fruit and cheese, and watch as everyone jostles for a second glass.
Robert Mondavi Vint Buttery Chardonnay 2022 - California
Available from $23.99
Here’s one for fans of ‘the bigger the better’ American Chardonnay, from the famed Mondavi stable of Californian wines. Golden in the glass, and bursting with aromas of pineapple, peach, vanilla and sweet lemon tart, it promises a rich palate that amplifies those characters – and that’s exactly what you get in the glass. Oak aging and full malolactic fermentation has brought waves of creamy richness to a fulsome palate that fills the mouth with lemon brulee flavours. There’s a decent lick of acidity on the finish, but it’s those creamy fruits that remain centre stage from go to whoa. Even by Californian standards, this is full-on chardonnay. It carries some residual sugar and lacks any sort of elegance, but fans of this over-the-top style will find plenty to enjoy here. Open a bottle with a grilled salmon dish to match those creamy characters but be warned: this showstopper isn’t for everyone. If you’re looking for refinement, best look elsewhere.
Novum Pinot Noir 2020 - Marlborough
Available from $46.99
This is the real deal; an excellent example of premium, small batch pinot noir from one of my favourite South Island producers. Under the watchful eye of William Hoare, Novum has delivered a very consistent series of wines since their inception, with their chardonnay and pinot noir both high on my list of the very best from Marlborough. This 2020 pinot looks especially sharp 4 years on from harvest. It shows classic regional pinot characters on the nose, with dark cherry and plum characters spiked with oak spice, and woody herbs opening the conversation. The palate is generously expressed and packed with detail. Savoury cherry and spicy red fruits fill the mouth, with slinky tannins and softly expressed acidity leaving a calming, soulful impression. It’s so accessible that you can happily enjoy it without food - and I’d suggest that you pair this lovely wine with a roaring open fire and great company.
Boccantino Susumaniello 2022 - Italy
Available from $21.99
Hailing from Salento in the southern ‘heel’ of Italy, this wonderful wine is definitely worth seeking out. Susumaniello is one of the rarer of the Italian grape varietals, which is hard to fathom given the immediate charm and sheer user-friendliness that the examples I have tasted to date have shown. Certainly this 2022 release from Boccantino is packed with flavour. It’s all spicy plum and black fruits on the nose, while the palate is broad and soft with those flavours ramped up and warmly expressed. It’s upfront and very attractive. It’s soft, smooth and supple – but dive a little deeper and you’ll see hints of barrel spice and woody herbs emerge. I loved it. Wines like this are right in my wheelhouse for a casual pasta dinner and a six pack of this well-priced Puglia red will be going home with me tonight.
Linden Estate Merlot 2020 - Hawke's Bay
Available from $17.99
Here’s this week’s bargain. 2020 was a very good vintage in Hawke’s Bay and Linden Estate has captured the potential of straight merlot with this well-made wine. Aromatically it is very inviting, with a glossy amalgam of red and black fruits dominating a bouquet that is complexed with cocoa and spice / anise notes. The palate is very smooth and comforting – with the classic fruit flavours of good Hawke’s Bay Merlot supported by a luxe layer of mocha / chocolate. The finish shows soft acidity that keeps those luscious chocolate flavours ticking over, and the lasting impression here is very together and complete. Wine of this calibre for $17.99 is a great find for careful shoppers. Open a bottle whenever you feel the need.