Welcome to this week’s column – a down to earth look at some interesting local and international releases that I have come across over the last few weeks.
Available from $17.99
Following on from the wonderful Block 28 Pinot Blanc discussed in my last column, here is another striking release from Saint Clair’s excellent, single vineyard Pioneer Block series. Sadly, gewurztraminer is a varietal that doesn’t garner a lot of attention these days, but it remains a captivating style when the stars align, and this 2023 small batch release bursts with a classic medley of tropical fruits on the nose and palate. Look for a bouquet of lychee, ginger and Turkish Delight, and wait for those characters to flood a nicely textural palate that holds some residual sweetness and lingering spice. The finish is long and harmonious – with lemon zest and soft acidity playing off against those juicy, off-dry fruit flavours. Excellent wine. Match with chili spiked Asian dishes at the next available opportunity.
Available from $12.99
Here’s another bargain from the value-driven Awakohu range. Vinted in a clean, fresh style, this 2023 release brings punchy layers of pear, red apple and semi-ripe peach together in a just off-dry palate that shows good texture and presence in the mouth. Those generous Gisborne fruits turn up the volume, while a crisp vein of zingy acidity keeps the conversation focused and on point. There are some subtle hints of baking spice if you go looking for them, but this is pinot gris to enjoy in casual settings without too much contemplation. Like any wine operating in the Quaffer Zone, it’s designed to be a relatively straightforward ‘crowd pleaser’ – but with so many of the pinot gris options I see in this price point looking flabby and lifeless, it’s refreshing to see some vibrancy and vigour in the glass. I’d match it with a rocket, pear and walnut salad with some panfried gurnard on the side. Or book club. Your choice.
Available from $18.99
This is a very good example of barrel-fermented chardonnay and another wine that showcases the amplified fruit weight that Gisborne grapes bring to the party. On the nose it’s all about those peachy Gisborne Chardonnay fruit characters, with some barrel spice and sweet citrus making themselves known. The palate is fulsome, creamy and packed with detail. Winemaker Mark Thompson has done a great job here, and while those ripe peach flavours do most of the heavy lifting, flavours of baking spice, almond, and butterscotch all have their part to play. Already looking very integrated for a relatively young wine, this 2020 release will continue to develop over the coming 5+ years – when those gorgeous lemon-butter and crème brûlée flavours will really make themselves known. Chardonnay is one of the most versatile food wines on the planet, but I’d go for a traditional roast chook with this little winner.
McArthur Ridge Brassknocker Pinot Noir 2022 - Central Otago
Available from $23.99
The rise of the McArthur Ridge brand has been nothing short of stratospheric since Matt Connell took over the head winemaker role. His wines have been cleaning up major awards on both local and international stages and no one could possibly argue that McArthur Ridge are now in any conversation of the hottest producers in Central Otago. The 2022 Brassknocker Pinot definitely walks the talk. The wine is very aromatic with notes of black cherry, redcurrant, cocoa and sweet oak to the fore. The palate is supple and flowing – but elegantly expressed – and the lasting impression is very balanced and complete. Available under $25, it is tremendous value. Match with good company, an open fire and a slinky soundtrack. Cellar over the coming 3-5 years to see a deeper broodiness emerge.
Alpha Domus The Navigator Merlot Cabernet 2019 - Hawke's Bay
Available from $29.99
It’s always a pleasure to revisit some of the classic Hawke’s Bay labels – especially when Navigator has long been a sentimental favourite for me. For my money, it has always been stonking good buying – with levels of complexity and character that far exceed the bottle price – and the 2019 undoubtedly lives up to that mantra with this well-rounded release. Merlot dominant (with cabernet sauvignon, malbec, and petit verdot completing the blend), it shows an amalgam of red and black fruits on the nose, with hints of anise and tobacco adding a spicy touch. The palate is medium-bodied and softly expressed – with slinky tannins and creamy acidity bringing things to a very rewarding close. Only now entering its ideal drinking window, this well-made wine would be a fine partner for roasted meats and vegetables on a cold winter’s night.
Pontifex Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2018 - Australia
Available from $36.99
Regular readers of this column will know how enamoured I am with GSM blends. The Holy Trinity of grenache, syrah and mourvèdre comes in many forms, from many countries, and I love them all. Australia arguably produces the most powerfully weighted GSMs - and this 2018 Pontifex release is an ‘all guns blazing’ style that comes packed to the hilt with flavour and charm. It’s a lovely expression that marries the upfront, glossy fruits of the grenache component with the drier and more structured inputs of shiraz and mourvèdre. It’s soft, smooth and immediately appealing, but maintains your interest throughout. Deep dive past those dazzling red and black fruits and you’ll find nuances of woody herbs, green tobacco, and oak spice. Match with a smoky beef burger and your best zingy barbecue sauce immediately.